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Last year I gave up my house and became a full-time travelling troubadour. On this website you can see where I've been, where I'm going, and the songs I've made along the way. |
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The others
There are others out there. You start to notice recurring names on the club's listings. The same posters. They're mostly Americans. They come over to Europe and do as many countries as possible. It's exotic to them and they're exotic to the bars. And distances and boundries mean less to them. Europeans on the other hand rarely venture outside their own stomping ground.
They play in front of the same crowds. Sleep in the same bed. Have dinner with the same host. Get asked the same questions. You think you're unique but you're just another night. I contacted a few of them when I started out, imagining there would be a cult of camaraderie among the troubadours, sharing stories about the best nights and the worst ones. But none responded. I'm sure they check my website just I check their's, harvesting the names of clubs and adding them to my lists. One for each country. It's all about the lists. Your tours are only going to be as good as your lists. It takes hundreds of hours to build up and maintain each list. You google the name and town of a club you've found on someone's gig page, find the email address of the booker from the website, and add it to the list. Then between three months and a year before you want to tour there, you contact all the people in your list. Techniques differ from act to act. Some prefer the sniper approach, calling up and speaking to to the booker directly, but when you're playing a lot of shows there really isn't time. I use the shotgun approach. Spraying out thousands of emails every month and seeing who responds with an offer. The replies refine the list, and once you've played a place you make further notes about it. Each time it's less work, you play the better clubs and avoid the bad ones, and your list gets better and better. You keep your list to yourself. It's business and we're competitors. Self-employed entrepreneurs providing a slightly different product to the same limited market. There are only so many clubs and only so many nights to play. If up-to-date lists were freely available the clubs would be flooded with people wanting to play. It would be much harder to get a show and the fees would fall to nothing, like they have in England and America. We'd be out of a job. There is a bigger secret though. Bigger than the lists. It's the knowledge that really anyone could do it. Anyone with a half descent set of songs and some experience. The bookers are really not that demanding, and provided you have some nice recordings, and good picture and a poster they will book you, especially if you're exotic. Most of those in the scene back home, who are so excited to hear about your travels and ask for advice about how they can do it, if they put down their guitar and picked up their laptop, they could do it as well. But there's the nub of it. We all have this vision of ourselves as musicians, not as a booker. We all want to have our genius discovered. And we all secretly feel the need for some kind of approval before we go. None of the greats started out booking themselves. In none of your idols biographies do you read... "Dear sir, I will be on tour in your area in the first week of May and would love to play your club. I am a social songwriter playing topical folk songs. I also have a large repertoire of Woody Guthrie songs if you would prefer to hear covers. I look forward to hearing from you, Bobby Dylan." Would Dylan have spent days stuffing envelopes and licking stamps? Woody? Would he fuck. And if his typewriter had hummed out letters rather than lyrics we wouldn't have all those great songs. It would seem like a Catch 22. A system doomed to stop you improving. To be successful you have to devote all your time to promoting yourself, but if you're doing that you don't have time to work on your art. You only need your first 45 minutes of material and then you don't have time to write anymore. You're playing to different people every night and when you do come back to the same clubs a year later it's usually a different audience. And even if it is all the same people, people want to hear the songs they've heard before. Live music is a strange and unique art form in that respect. But full-time touring has its inevitable positive effects. So you start playing for yourself. You get much better at playing live. And secondly you become so bored of your own songs that you have to write new ones just to stay sane. The traditional boiling pots are still there - New York and London. You can still go and sweat it out all with the other rats. . Pissing and shitting on each other. The raw ambition. The naked greed. The hierarchies and name dropping. The fake respect. The army of next big things. You think the internet would be the perfect system. Completely accessible and democratic. The cream rising to the top. Unfortunately there is more music than God himself has time to listen to and 99.99% is utter shit. The jar is overflowing and the cream slips down the side. So those of us who have wised up to all of this hit the road. Slovenia really isn't that far. MadridHanging out. Hanging on... to the back of my friend Pablo's motorcycle. We had a night on the town starting with the best cocktail bar in Madrid, dinner in a Tapas bar and then to a jazz club. The nightlife in Madrid is one of the best in the world, he assures me. It's certainly one of the most expensive. The cocktails certainly helped with the motorbiking, and took my mind off the rain. He says I can take it round myself tomorrow but I think I'm safer on the sidewalk. I didn't get a chance to see Rome yesterday. I will have to go back as everyone assures me it's stunning. It also hit me for the first time that I'm really on the road without a base, when I realised that was the first flight I think I've taken when it's not been to or from my home airport. They've always been there and back flights. - - - - - - - - I've given some thought to what I might like to do once I've toured myself to exhaustion... It came to me last night while I was in this packed jazz club as the hippsters on stage where grooving there thing. More established songwriters have done residencies in venues like The Living Room in New York. And if I had one I'd like to do a News Revue. Spending all week writing songs, poems and other topical pieces based on what's gone on that week. Having that deadline and that demand for fresh material would be marvelous, and having the time to do it. Now I only play my best 10-20 songs over and over again with little time to write new ones. I know Revues are nothing new. They were probably among the first performances, and they're still on the radio every week. But I don't know of any songwriter ones in clubs. Done well it could be quite an event. Also reviews are nearly always comical, so it might be more unique if it wasn't funny. But serious songs are much harder to do. It would be easier to do bits about the Pope's teenage diaries and the (not so) private lives of English footballers, than to write about the masses dead in Haiti or Iraq. Perhaps poems over sombre jazz? A backing band improvising tunes. Means I'd only have to do the lyrics. Also residencies are much more common in jazz bars.... mmmm.... and more atmospheric and intimate... I'll give it more thought anyway. It's an idea still on the stove. Officiano Metropolis, Livorno IT
Oh dear, one of those nights tonight. I'm sleeping at the owners house half an hour away by car and he can't leave until the bar closes. It's 1.30 and more people keep coming in. I could be here a while... whisky time. If I'm going to stay I might as well drink the best stuff they have.
It was another quiet show but I get paid the same regardless so I'm not complaining. Looking forward to done time off. It's been a long week. Livorno is by the sea. Just so you know. Another day of motion tomorrow. Up and to the car and to the train and to the plane and to the metro and to the taxi and walk to the door. Firenze
I didn't realize Firenze was Florence until today. I've changed trains
here twice and never ventured out of the station, but this time I had a poke around, albeit a brief one, bags and all prohibiting a full scale assault. The Frog Cafe, Noveller IT
Italian car repairs. Andrea from the cafe drove me to the train
station thus morning. I stayed in his house last night above the cafe. I prefer houses or band apartments because I can make my porridge in the morning. Cold continental hotel breakfasts really don't agree with me. I've tried forcing my way into the kitchen and commandeering a saucepan but they often put up a struggle. A nice easy show last night. But it was very quiet. Monday. Normally I The first week is not good to play in Italy anyway. Because people get My to do list includes: Subscribers?
Dear fan(s),
This is the discussion going on among the music people.... would you guys pay €1 a month to part of the Foundation or is selling music a debt duck? "Imagine that you had a membership option. So no more free music on your page, maybe a few free tracks. But become a member of The Jack Stafford Foundation and get: free music. All they can eat. All year around, all releases. They pay 1 euro pr. month. You make a flyer announcing that, people just put a automatic pay in for 1 euro and they keep their password to free music. It’s a fun model, imagined that it worked and you got 1000 members. That would be insane. I would become a member, anyone who would like to buy 1 track on itunes, then he’ll be better of becoming a member you know. Even for 3 months or what ever people want, but I think, 1 euro is nothing and if you play so many shows, maybe there is a few fans who would support the madness. And even a few hundred euros pr month would make the wheel spin." Anders Meisner, Epitaph "The recorded music business must switch to subscription, it's its only hope of economic survival. The iTunes Store is killing the music business. Sure, it provides a legal alternative to theft/copyright infringement, but the economics make no sense. Because instead of spending $10-$20 for an album, people are now purchasing $1.29 tracks. And it takes many $1.29 tracks to reach the equivalent of an album. Essentially ten. So, you're asking the public to make ten purchases instead of one. Get it? Can you imagine someone saying yes ten times in a row? Imagine buying the White Album a la carte. How many people do you think would have purchased "Revolution 9"? But we did, as part of an album, there were no singles from the White Album, and therefore we know "Revolution 9", because oftentimes we were just too lazy to jump up and lift the needle past it, and we ended up hearing it, it's in our DNA, like the rest of those album tracks. But it makes no sense to complain that people should buy albums instead of singles, you're pissing in the wind, the Internet has unbundled the album. That doesn't mean you can't try to get people to buy as many of your tracks as possible, it just means that the concept of paying once for ten tracks is something that no one has to do, and almost no one wants to do. So, inherently, we're selling less music, and making less money. Who do we want to blame? Apple, the customer? That makes no sense, as stated previously Apple is providing an alternative, and without customers you've got no business. The key is to get more cash from each individual consumer, so in the aggregate, we end up with a lot of money. The classic example is cable bundling. You cannot buy your cable channels a la carte. You must buy them in tiers. Which drives you nuts. Why am I paying for something I'm never going to watch? But economically, it makes sense. For if the channels were unbundled, the cable system wouldn't be able to make enough money, so it would have to raise the price of each individual channel substantially, to the point where you'd be paying just as much. According to this article in the "New Yorker", at most you'd be saving thirty five cents. And you'd give up the ability to surf all those extra channels, and possibly find something interesting. That's what we want people to do. Surf the music and find something interesting. That was the old album paradigm. Since you paid four or six or ten bucks for the LP (the price went up with inflation), you listened to it, and found out you liked cuts other than the hits, to the point you wanted to see the act live, to hear it perform all these songs, and bought the next album not worrying about a hit, because you were a fan of the band. I hope these days can return. But we've got to switch the game in the interim. We've got to make people fans of music! Yes, instead of paying ten bucks for an album, you pay ten bucks for music. And technology allows everybody access, so instead of charging our good customers more, we charge everybody one low flat fee, kind of like cable television, the provider doesn't care if you watch all day long or not at all, it's the same price. And speaking of price, we can argue whether ten bucks is appropriate, we can argue price all day long, but we can't argue paradigm. The key to survival is charging everybody something. Not breaking it down by track, but providing the whole smorgasbord for a single price. Now the Spotify trick is to get you hooked for free, then upsell you. That's a good concept, works in sampling across all wares. Don't think it's about giving music away for free, it's ultimately about getting a chance to convert many people. It's just like a retail store. The first key is getting traffic, then, once people are in the store, you do your best to close them. Hell, sometimes you do giveaways just to get them in! Not that Spotify is the only solution. But the labels must see they need to drive subscriptions, or lose the bundling war. That site allowing you to get tracks for experiencing ads? That's economic death. As is Apple's concept of letting you stream the tracks you own via the cloud. If either of these take hold, the odds of subscription winning go down, and you want them to go up, because the pool is so much larger. Don't see this as a music problem. Don't see this as a value problem. See this as an economic problem. How do we get the most money? Certainly not by selling tracks. Definitely by selling low-priced subscriptions. Furthermore, if the music is streamed (with thousands of tracks on your hand-held in case you're out of range, Spotify provides this today), there's no issue of someone stealing everything and then disconnecting. What's there to steal? People believe YouTube clips will live in the cloud forever, very few people save them to disk. We have to migrate music to this same sphere. Please read this article about bundling. It will make the concept clear to you. The cable companies and content providers are tempting unbundling by fighting their silly wars in public. We have the reverse problem in music. Our content has been unbundled. Only by bundling it again can the industry regain health. www.newyorker.com/talk/ -- Visit the archive: http://lefsetz.com/wordpress/" Exwide, Pisa ITThe other acts last night were Italian dadaist (punk-folk meets gypsy-rock). All painted clothes and body paint. Not for the purists, but lots of singalong parts and the locals lapped it up. Pisa is very medieval. Narrow streets and back alleys. Cool in the summer but dark in the winter. I think I'd have a much stronger sense of being in Italy if the weather was warmer. As it is it doesn't have that zing in the air. The people are subdued. - - - - - - - - - - - - Tonight I play back near Reggio Emilia where I just came from - back into the snow - then tomorrow I'm back where I am today, near Pisa. Really yoyoing. The last show came in late so it's an add-on. I don't mind too much, because I sleep on the train and I have a eurorail ticket so it doesn't cost anything. If I was driving it would be a different story. Train travel is definitely the future for me. I wish I'd thought of this before I planned my 16 week /20,000km US roadtrip. I only now checked America's Amtrak and it's pretty well-covered (see map). I couldn't play the smaller towns but that wouldn't matter. It's too late for this year because I have a lot of dates fixed already, but next year I will take more time and do the train. The coming weeks I've finalised my travel plans for the ipcoming weeks. I wasn't sure whether more Italian shows might come in but they haven't so I'm off to Madrid on Wednesday. I wanted to take the sleeper train from Milan to Barcelona and then the train down, but even with my eurorail ticket, it's still twice the price for just a bed in a sleeper carriage. (They should really change the tax system to reflect the true cost). Then in two weeks I will fly from Barcelona to Paris rather than the train, as it's 1 hour instead of 10 (min.) and only €60 with easyjet. Ridiculous! So I have almost two weeks in Spain staying with friends, and only two shows. It will be nice to settle down a bit. It's been a hectic week buzzing around Italy. On the whole, the language barrier was too much for the Italian audiences. It was fine in Austria and Switzerland. But will probably be worse in France and Spain. Weather report
Woke up to a foot of snow in Parma this morning. Slept in a hostel
again. Own room in a new place, but hostels are not starred. The breakfast was run by a little Napoleon who fussed over his domain. All the drinks were out of machines, the croissants could hold open doors and the breakfast was recycled cardboard. The dinner lastnight was very nice. The Booker emailed ahead to get Caffee Letterario, Parma IT
A noisy restaurant. Tough long shows, especially when the crowd
doesn't understand a word you're saying. Parma is nice though. Pao, San Benedetto del Tronto, ItalyI’m at the Italian seaside. In January. Who plans these things? It’s raining which I’m pleased about. I’ve been carrying a heavy fisherman-sized umbrella around in my guitar case and now I have the satisfaction of using it. San Beneditto is very charming. More palm trees than I’ve ever seen in my life. In the summer it’s the No. 1 Italian tourist destination but now it is all boarded up. The only beach bar still open is Pao, owned by Paolo. He’s been a fantastic host and it was a trip to eat with an Italian George Clooney doppelganger. I had a day-off today due to a cancellation and him and his girlfriend showed me around. Italians are rarely short on personality. In the winter there is only one place each night with something going on. Tuesday’s is the live music in Pao. Wednesday’s is Dochs (docks) the sailor hangout and drag queen bar. They were miming which always is disappointing. I like my drag queens to give a full show. I didn’t ask what they do on a Thursday. I leave it to your imagination. (Back to lookalikes, there was a guy in Dochs who was the spitting image of Mickey Rourke. He was a fashion designer for brands like Vivian Westwood. I think he liked me). The show went well. People only turned up at 12 o’clock. Few understood what I was singing about but they appreciated the sentiment. In other news, I see that the iPad is official. I will have to get one in the interests of weight. My laptop is a brick. I will wait for the second generation though which will have a data connection, and try to get a contract for worldwide connection. It’s a real chore chunking around the bars, bags and all. Bowing clumsily through the door (the guitar bag adds two feet to my height), I shuffle around the corners, laptop held high, trying to detect a precious connection while the whole bar goes quiet. It’s one of the aspects of life on the road that I could most do without. The other most problematic aspect of travelling is the food. It tastes fabulous in Italy of course. Unfortunately it seems to be restricted to pizza, pasta, pizza, pasta, pizza, pasta, cheese, pizza, pasta, cheese, cheese and cheese. One has to wonder where they get their nutrients. At least now I know everyone has a beeday. The mixture comes out like treacle. A spatula would be more use than toilet paper. Without regular bullets of espresso I don’t think you could get it through the system. Tea comes with free cake. It is certainly something to see an Italian drink a coffee. The whole process, from paying at one end of the bar, to drinking it another, is accomplished in under 60 seconds. A thimble-full of coffee is quaffed in an instant and they’re on their way. For a laidback, slow-moving society it is the last thing you’d expect. The Americano option, developed for those brought up on tea, was not even available in the village bar when I went up into the mountains with Paolo to see a printer he was working with. Starbucks insidious ways hold no attraction here and there are no places you don’t see people walking around with ¼ gallon cups of warm milk with a shot of coffee in them. If only McDonalds had met with a similar fate. Unfortunately, they seem to approve. Which brings me full-cycle, so to speak, to my digestion. The strain on my processor has been such that it almost evacuated with delight upon hearing the news that their was an Indian restaurant opposite the station in Accura. With its promise of hearty lentils and soothing rice we all breathed a sigh of relief. The digestive spices and calming herbs have been refined in their most agreeable mixture over thousands of years. No celebrity chef with an art degree deciding that vinegar, caramel and frozen mango are good for the palette, and to hell with the stomach. Moving on, there are two more areas of difficulty, namely getting enough sleep (as this is my priority above all else and I’m willing to be late rather than sacrifice time, I usually do alright) and alcohol. I spend every night in a bar and as soon as I walk in I’m offered a drink. Whenever I respond by saying that I am already perfectly well hydrated, I’m met with a puzzled look and the inarguable retort :”But you drink for free”. If the initial wave of hospitality can be ridden, then the lubricant is often resorted to as the purposeless hours after the soundcheck and dinner, and before the show, drag on interminably. Finally, to squeeze my spleen of its remaining sediment. The final area of grit is conversation. Having a conversation is very much like making love. Clumsy, quickly repetitive and easy to blame the other person when it’s not going well. My sanity is becoming severely affected. I look forward with dread to the predictable hail of questions that will come with every new introduction. Because I am the act… and foreign… and doing something they’d like to do… and with a story to tell… they will always reel off the same ten questions in the exact same order, no matter which country I’m in. Just as I often try to think of ways to improve my live act, I have been devoting some time to thinking of ways to turn this negative in a positive. I believe there is no such thing as a bad audience, only a bad performer. Every exchange between two unique human beings who’ve never met before should be as equally unique. Tactics to improve them currently before the committee, include answering every question with a question or giving entirely fictional accounts of my life. A more right wing idea is to explain my predicament to prospective parties and agree to a question-free conversation, with a €5 fine everytime an accidental question rears its head. The coming week... Italy
Off to Italy today. The first show is there tomorrow. Everyone keeps asking me where I'm going exactly so here's a map.
Orta Bar, Ljubljana Slovenia
It turns out that weekends are quiet in Ljubljana. Students and the workers leave town, so Saturday night, even in the big venue I played in, was dead quiet. The small audience did the best they could though. We worked together. I got offered another show in Graz (in Celje I got one in Maribour, so it all leads to something else).
I could stay here a few more days quite happily. It's a small, easy-going, walkable town. I met some very nice people through couch-surfing and have had thorough tours. I opted for a hotel for the last two nights just to have some quiet time to do booking. I'm doing Canada in May today. It's a weight that hangs on me - the trouble with doing everything is that you're always missing something. A good show means a late night which means less booking. The conflict. The ebb and flow of energy, and the power lost in the transition. Etc. Celje Slovenia
This is Kosta who organised my show here in his hometown. I met him in
Germany last year where we were both touring. He's a great character. He was in one of Slovenia's biggest bands in the 70s, then he ran the biggest nightclub, now he builds guitars for the top Slovenian acts. Lots of tales to tell. The show went well. A nice crowd battled through the snow. I stayed in The Flying Pig, Vienna AU
Another one on the list of strange places I've played. Up until three
years ago it was a whorehouse run by the Croatian Mafia. They sold guns and drugs and during the war the rival gang heads would meet there and settle disputes. There's even a cell in the basement. It's now a bar run by Paul, an English guy, and for the first year and He still can't get a music licence so doesn't have many live shows. Paul also plays in a mod band and they've been in the charts here, and It seems that quite a few countries have a mod-influenced band who Cafe Carina, Vienna AUI played at Graham Freespirit's birthday party under one of the subway stations. It was more like Hamburg than Vienna. Rough and ready. A noisy crowd. Just did half an hour. Went round the Belvedere in the daytime. Got my fill of art in these few days that's for sure. Day off, Vienna AU
The best city so far by far. I've cone to the Leopold museum to see
some Klimt up close. Truly stunning. Thinking more about the need for a story, I've decided to play every I'm staying with a very nice couchsurfing host, Alexander, who's Triebwerk, Wien Neustadt AU
First show of the year for the club. The only one this month. And they
normally book punk so it was very nice of them to have me. The booker liked my story. Reminds me that it's always good to have a story. A local (Ella pictured) opened up and we sang the encore together. I'm There were a few more talkers in the audience than the other nights. The venue put me up in the towns hostel. This big old building in the Roda, Steyr AU
Strange to come to a town in a country I've never been to and see my face all over town.
The crowd were good again. I'm almost sold out I'd CDs. Boxes are being posted to cities along the route but I missed the pickup in Zurich. I slept in a room backstage above the venue and three times throughout the night drunk guys came in to crash in the other bunks. I was ticked off by the end. But I did get up early and had a nice look around the town. Steyr is very pretty, medieval. And everyone at the venue was very friendly - even doing my washing for me. The hospitality has been tremendous. |




















